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Bhubaneswar - City of Temples is situated on the main railway line that
connects Howrah in the north with Chennai in the south. Geographically it is placed at 20
The city is well connected by air as well as land routes with other parts of the country.
This place is a bit hot in summer with the mercury occasionally rising to 42 celcius,
sweltering and humid during the monsoon as the onrush of the south-east monsoon wind
brings down the gushing rains and is relatively dry in winter, rarely the mercury plunging
below 11 celcius. The Bay of Bengal, barely 100 kms away as the crow flies, exercises a
moderating influence over the climate and keeps it temperate. Of course, the seasons have
their own charm and the distinctive appeal and Bhubaneswar can be visited at anytime of
the year. The period between mid-September and mid-March is considered as the tourist
season when the sun is bright and warm, the sky is blue, the air is cool and the weather
is generally pleasant. To the visitor, Bhubaneswar is a city of contrasts, co-existence
and continuity. There is a happy encounter of past and present in this temple town which
has a history of about 2500 years. All religions and sects flourished here. There is
the famous Lingaraj Temple which has been a
centre of Shiva-worship. Buddhism and Jainism also received royal patronage and general
acceptance. Emperor Ashoka won a bloody war in 261 B.C. but lost his
style="mso-spacerun: yes" victory in remorse and repentance and thus he embraced
Buddhism. This is also the landof the great Orissan emperor Kharavela whose exploits and
achievements have been recorded in the rock-cut inscriptions in the caves of Udayagiri and
Khandagiri. The grace and majesty of Orissan art can be seen in the great temples of Lingaraj, Rajarani and Mukteswar.
In
the modern part of the city which is only about forty years old, one finds the temples of
our time, the major academic and research establishments such as Utkal University, the
Orissa University of Agriculture and Technology, the Utkal University of Culture, Regional
Research Laboratory, the Institute of Physics, the Indian Council of Medical Research, and
so on. Life is quicker here compared to what it is in the ancient section. The city
traffic cannot be called heavy even during the peak hours and parts of the city wear a
deserted look for the better part of the day. The city is generally safe for travel at all
hours. But as a precaution one need not venture out at odd hours at night. One invariably
returns from Bhubaneswar with pleasant memories and a rich haul of memorabilia consisting
of exquisite artefacts or beautifully designed hand-woven silk or cotton material or
plenty of photographs of temples, caves, landscape and so on, and above all, with a fond
desire to come back someday to the land of history and culture, into the folds of
affection of the place and the people.
The major places of interest are listed in alphabetical order. Bhubaneswar has two
distinct zones : one belonging to the glorious past that includes the majestic temples,
the ruins of ancient shrines and cities, the caves and the historically significant
rock-cut inscriptions and royal edicts, and the other belonging to our times with all the
signs and symptoms of a modern city, such as the massive complex of the Orissa
Secretariat, the nerve centre of state administration, tall buildings that are the
veritable beehives of commercial activities, beautiful shopping areas, lovely parks and
posh housing localities, the Universities and many other institutions of learning and
research, luxurious hotels and restaurants offering comfort and food that would compare
favourably with the best anywhere, and so on. This modern city is also the capital of the
State.There is a sense of continuity as one finds the spire of the Lingaraj temple looking
over the modern highrise steel and concrete structures, office complexes and hotels. The
city is a living phenomenon expanding and growing with the passing of every day.
The vistor to this temple town can reach Bhubaneswar by air or bus or train. Once in the
town he may choose his own mode of travel either by city buses or hired cars and
autorickshaws. But to absorb the ambience of the place and have a leisurely pace to his
visits, he may prefer the cycle-rickshaw to other modes of fast transport.Figures against
each entry indicate the approximate distance between the proposed place of visit and the
railway station that is at the centre of the city and the gateway of entry to the majority
of visitors to Bhubaneswar Ananta - Vasudeva Temple 1278
A.D.(4 km)Often considered to be a watered down version of the magnificent Lingaraj temple
as far as the architecture is concerned, this 18.29 metre high lone Vaishnav shrine is the
most finished temple situated on the east bank of the Bindu Sarovara. It was erected by
Chandradevi, the daughter of Anangabhima III during the rule of Bhanudeva in 1278 AD. In
support of this date eminent historians offer a fresh reading and interpretation of the
text found on the commemorative inscription of the temple. This piece of evidence now is
under the custody of the Royal Asiatic Society of Great Britain and Ireland. Other scholars think 1200 AD as a probable date of its
construction.The temple has four component parts; their roofs ascending upward,
culminating in the mastaka of the deul. The shrine has a profusely carved exterior and an
ornamental platform within the complex. Ananta-Vasudeva temple is an important Vaishnavite
place of worship with the images of the Holy Trinity, Krishna, Balarama and Subhadra in
the sanctum. The parsva-devatas include at least three incarnations of Vishnu, the
Preserver. It is customary for the devout to visit the temple after taking a holy dip in
the Bindu-Sarovara, prior to the darshan of Lord Lingaraj. Scores of pilgrims from
different parts of the country entering the temple with fresh flowers, sweets, coconuts
and bananas as offerings to the deities is a colourful sight. They eagerly await their
turn in the rush to partake of mahaprasad or holy food.Bhaskareshwar Temple (6 km)This
small temple is remarkable for its 'stepped' design and the unusually high linga in its
sanctum. The peculiarity of the temple structure seems to have been dictated by the
practical necessity of performing rituals like bathing or garlanding or putting pastes of
sandalwood and other perfumery on the tall linga which rises to a height of nearly three
metres from the floor level. Some scholars believe that the linga was originally a free
standing pillar.
Bindu Sarovara (4km) Situated to the north of the Lingaraj temple
this large pool measures approximately 400m x 230m. The devouts believe this Sarovara to
contain water from every holy stream, pool and river of India and can purify them of all
sins. Hence on its banks, they perform many rituals, or tonsure their heads and take a dip
in its water. Once upon a time the tank had all its sides covered with stone. Today only
the southern side and parts of the eastern side have the original linings made of blocks
of laterite stone. At the centre of the tank there is an island temple to which the icon
of Vishnu is customarily taken during the Snana Yatra.The embankment on all sides is
dotted with innumerable shrines and temples, some of which are still under active worship.
Brahmeshwar Temple 1061 AD.(6.5
km)This temple was built by Kolavati, the mother of the Somavansi king Udyotakesari, in
the eighteenth regnal year of his reign, in the Siddhatirtha locality at Ekamra. One of
the inscriptions, now believed lost, stated that Kolavati presented many beautiful women
to the temple. This presentation is interpreted as an early evidence of the devadasi (God's Maids) tradition. This tradition influenced the
socio-economic as well as the cultural life of the Odissan people at a later date and
formed a dominant and recurrent motif in Orissi music and dance. The importance of this
system can be realised from the fact that this motif had come to be part of the art idiom
too.The temple is a fine specimen of innovative and mature Orissan style of temple
building. For the first time iron beams have been used to build up the structure. This is
the second temple, after the Mukteshwar, to boast of a Jagamohana that has a finely carved
interior. The sculptural details and the immaculate iconography show expert workmanship of
the Orissan artists of the era. The figures of the musicians and dancers, the lion-head
motif, the amusing and erotic figures and others exude a special charm. One must notice
the beautiful figure of a young woman appearing a little bewildered and perhaps a little
surprised at her lover's unexpected naughty probe into her body. The floral motifs, the
intricately designed creepers, the flying figures, the images of the eight directional
guardian deities and so on, are all meticulously executed and the chiselling shows an
excellent sense of proportion, harmony and an eye for aesthetic embellishment on the part
of the artists. The usual Shaivite door keepers stand above the double vidalas at the
bottom of the jambs; the figure of the Gajalakshmi adorns the mid section of the lintel
and those of the navagrahas are there on the architrave. This shrine, though dedicated to
Lord Shiva, shows a number of images which might have been inspired by the Tantric cult of
the time. On the western facade the figure of Chamunda stands on a corpse with a trident
and a human head. Elsewhere many other deities, including Shiva, are depicted in their
horrific aspects.
B K College of Art and Crafts (10 km) The college offers higher
studies in certain modes of art and craft including wood carving, palm leaf etching, stone
sculpture, clay modelling,commercial art, graphic art, line drawing and painting. The
college is located in Khandagiri area. It is affiliated to the Utkal University of
Culture.Dhauli (9 km) Dhauli is a small hillock rising conspicuously on the southern bank
of the river Daya, in the midst of green fields that seem to
reach out to the horizon. This is the site where Ashoka waged
the final battle against Kalinga in 261 BC. The victory came to him riding over a million
corpses bringing him a macabre confirmationof his military prowess that had already earned
him the sobriquet, Asoka the Slayer (Chandasoka). Legend has it that the gory sight of the
battle with dead men chocking the flow of the Daya river (literally, the river of
compassion) that had turned to be a river of blood, filled the heart of the conqueror with
an hitherto unknown feeling of compassion and bouts of remorse. He realised the futility
of digvijaya (military conquest) and the nobility of dharmavijaya (spiritual conquest).
Thus Asoka the Slayer changed into Asoka the compassionate (Dharmasoka). He embraced
Buddhism, it is believed, here, at the Dhauli foothill. This is the place where gory deeds
were amended by hoary corrections.
At
the base of Dhauli, where the approach road to the top begins
its incline, one can see on the left the Asokan rock-edicts, well preserved under a large
rock outcropping with a rock-cut elephant head. The edicts are public injunctions,
instructions from the emperor to the local administrators to imbibe and adopt the spirit
of justice and compassion towards the people in all matters pertaining to the civil
administration. Two new edicts, pacifistic in nature, have been added and the 13th edict,
that glorified Asok's conquest of Kalinga, is conspicuous by its absence. The elephant
head over the edicts is a sacred Buddhist motif testifying to the emperor's change of
heart.To commemorate the historic events of the past, the Japanese Buddhists have lavishly
contributed to erect a peace pagoda on the hilltop. On a clear day, standing on the steps
of the pagoda, the visitor can have a maginificent view of the temple town with the
majestic Lingaraj temple rising to the sky or watch at the foothill the silver strip of
the river Daya meanderinglazily past its serpentine bends, touching softly the embankments
where the glorious past of Orissa has remained hidden.
It is a wonderful experience watching the glorious sunset beyond the unending Ekamrakanan (10 km)Spread over a large area, Ekamrakanan is a
modern nursery-cum-flower garden. It is a favourite haunt of the plant lovers as well as
casual visitors as round the year the well-preserved beds of flowers offer a feast for the
eye. The rose-beds present a riot of colours and the air is often thick with sweet smell.
Many varieties of cacti can also be seen us.
Harekrushna Mahtab State Library (2km)The building quite
close to Rabindra Mandap on Jawaharlal Marg houses the State Library. It is named after
late Harekrushna Mahtab, one of the former Chief Ministers of Orissa. There are a large
number of books including some old and priceless volumes. It caters to the need of the
reading public of the city. It remains open from 8.00 A.M. to 8.00 P.M. on all working
days.
Institute of Physics (4 km)This is a premier institute of study
and research in Physics where scholars from different arts of the country and abroad
conduct full time research in different branches of Physics. It has a beautiful campus
with hostels for scholars, faculty building and residential quarters for the staff.Jayadev
Orissa State Museum (2 km)This is rather a small museum with limited sections of exhibits.
But the archaeological wing boasts of some of the rare findings of historical as well as
sociological importance. Some of the collections are exquisite specimens of Orissan
sculpture. The manuscript section of the museum has a large collection of palm leaf
writing locally known as pothi Scholars are engaged in research in this section. The
section devoted to the history and culture of Orissa provides a glimpse of the composite
character of Orissan culture through carefully arranged exhibits and show-windows.
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